Siargao in December: Weather, Surf and What to Expect

Most December guides to Siargao tell you one of two things. Either it rains constantly and you should not come, or the weather is perfect and the beaches are gorgeous. Both are written by people who were not here.

Here is what actually happens. In early December the wind swings to the northeast. Filipinos call it the amihan. It brings bigger swell and cooler, wetter air, and it blows straight onshore at Cloud 9, which turns the island's famous right-hander into a messy, crumbling wall even when the swell is large.

If you only know Cloud 9, that reads like a ruined trip. It is not. The same wind that wrecks Cloud 9 is offshore at breaks facing the other way, and those breaks spend December doing exactly what Cloud 9 does in October. The island has the wind and swell variety to hand you a rideable wave somewhere most days. You just have to know where to look.

This guide covers where the wind works in your favour, what the rain really does day to day, and what December is genuinely good for besides surfing.

Why Cloud 9 goes off the boil

Cloud 9 faces roughly northeast. It wants a light offshore or a glassy morning, which is what the calmer months deliver. From December the northeast wind arrives on the swell's shoulder and blows straight into the face. The wave still breaks, and it can be big, but it is textured and hard to read. Good surfers still ride it. It is not the postcard.

Stimpy's

The destination break of the season. A left on the far side of the bay, and the wind that ruins Cloud 9 grooms Stimpy's clean. It handles size and it works through the amihan months. This is where the people who live here go in December.

Rock Island

The other one worth the boat ride. Like Stimpy's, it sits at an angle that turns the northeast wind offshore, and it holds swell well. Expect anything from head high to well overhead on a consistent December run.

An honest caveat

Neither is glassy perfection. December surf here is consistent rather than pristine, and both of these are reef breaks that suit confident intermediates and up. Getting to them usually means a boat and someone who knows the way.

Beginners in December

Genuinely fine, and arguably better than peak season. Jacking Horse and Quiksilver near Cloud 9 are smaller and less crowded than they are in October. A one-hour Basic Surf 101 lesson is ₱820, the two-hour version ₱1,640, and a 3-day course at Sinag ₱6,500.

Getting to the right break

The single best purchase of a December surf trip. A surf trip with Happy Islanders is ₱2,110 and takes you to whatever is working that day, which matters more this month than any other. Intermediate coaching and spot guiding is ₱2,340. See the Siargao surf guide for the full break list.

December falls in Siargao's wetter stretch, roughly December to February, and the monthly rainfall totals look alarming written down. The lived experience is different from the number.

Tropical rain here arrives in bursts. An hour of heavy downpour, then sun, then dry enough that your towel is usable again. A common December pattern is rain overnight and early morning, clearing to a sunny late morning and afternoon. You will lose parts of days, not whole weeks.

How to plan around it

Front-load the day. Boat trips, the ride north and anything tide-dependent go in the morning. Keep one spare day in the itinerary so a washed-out afternoon does not cost you Sugba Lagoon entirely. Book island hopping for early in your trip so you have room to reschedule.

What to pack

A light rain jacket, a dry bag for the boat and the bike, and shoes you do not mind soaking. Roads flood in patches and dry out fast. Our packing list has the full version.

Typhoons

Possible in this window and worth taking seriously. Get travel insurance that covers weather disruption, keep a buffer day before any onward international flight, and watch the forecast rather than assuming. Most December trips are unaffected. The ones that are affected are affected properly.

Learning to surf

Smaller, more forgiving waves at the beginner spots and fewer people in the water than October. If your goal is to stand up rather than get barrelled, this is a better month than peak season. Our beginner's guide covers where to start.

The island looks its best

Rain makes everything green. The rice fields, the palms and the rivers are at their fullest, and the ride north through San Isidro is at its most worthwhile.

Waterfalls and rivers

Maasin River runs high and the Tak Tak Falls have real volume, which is not true in the dry months. Tayangban Cave Pool is less weather-dependent than most things here.

Prices, outside the holiday fortnight

Early December, before around the 20th, is one of the better value windows of the year. The holiday premium has not kicked in and the surf crowds have gone home. Late December is the opposite, as our Christmas and New Year guide explains.

Wellness, when the surf is off

Vinyasa yoga is ₱585, mat pilates ₱660, group reformer ₱1,320 and The Valhalla Ritual ₱3,276.

Where it is drier

Nowhere on the island escapes it, but Del Carmen and the western side tend to catch less of the northeast weather than the east coast. If the forecast is grim, head west rather than north.

These are two different trips and it is worth knowing which one you have booked.

1 to roughly 20 December

Quiet, good value, wet, and the amihan is settling in. Fewer people than any other month bar the deep wet season. Rooms are at normal rates and you can usually get a table anywhere. This is the underrated window.

Roughly 20 December to 5 January

The busiest and most expensive fortnight of the Siargao year. Rooms run 50 to 100 percent above normal and sell out months ahead, restaurants need booking and the strip is full every night. Festive and loud, and nothing like the first three weeks of the month.

Which to pick

If your dates are flexible and you want value and space, come in the first half. If you want the Filipino festive season and do not mind paying for it, come for the second. Just do not book the second expecting the first.

Is December a good time to visit Siargao?

It is a good time to learn to surf, to see the island at its greenest and to travel cheaply in the first three weeks. It is a poor time to chase perfect Cloud 9 barrels, and an expensive time to come over Christmas and New Year.

Does it rain all the time in December?

No. Rain comes in bursts, often overnight and early morning, then clears. You lose parts of days rather than whole weeks. Plan outdoor trips for the morning and keep a spare day.

What is the amihan?

The northeast monsoon wind, roughly December to May. It brings cooler, wetter air and bigger northeast swell. It blows onshore at Cloud 9 and offshore at breaks facing the other way, which is why the surf moves rather than disappears.

Can you still surf Cloud 9 in December?

Yes, but it is usually messy because the wind is onshore. There can be a lot of swell. Experienced surfers still ride it on the better mornings, and most people head to Stimpy's or Rock Island instead.

Where should beginners surf in December?

Jacking Horse and Quiksilver, both near Cloud 9. They are smaller and less crowded this time of year than in peak season, which makes December one of the better months to start.

Is island hopping still possible in December?

Usually yes, though trips get cancelled more often than in the dry months. Book it early in your stay so you have room to reschedule, and go in the morning. A tri-island tour is ₱1,700.

Are there typhoons in December?

They are possible. Most trips are unaffected, but take insurance that covers weather disruption and leave a buffer day before any onward international flight.

If your trip lands over the holidays, read Siargao at Christmas and New Year and New Year's Eve in Siargao. For the culture side, Filipino Christmas traditions covers Simbang Gabi.

For the year in full, see the best time to visit Siargao. If you would rather come when Cloud 9 fires, our guide to the Philippines Pro covers the Championship Tour event at the end of October.

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