Bayani at Harana Siargao

Bayani is the restaurant at Harana Surf Resort, at the end of a narrow lane off Tuason Point in Catangnan, a few minutes' walk from Cloud 9. It sits in the resort's big open-sided pavilion of wood and thatch, a few steps from the pool, the beach bar and the sand. It took the name Bayani after Typhoon Odette in 2021, and filmmaker Paul Soriano is among its co-owners.

The kitchen cooks Filipino food with a lean toward Southern Mindanao, including Tausug and Zamboanga dishes you rarely see on tourist menus. Diners keep recommending the beef kulma, the tiyula itum (a black chicken soup coloured with burnt coconut), bangus sisig and fish sisig, kinilaw, dynamite and vegetable lumpia, sinigang loaded with vegetables, and the halo-halo. There is a proper vegetarian side too, such as a roasted cauliflower dish that gets singled out. Breakfast is served to resort guests and walk-ins.

It runs from 7am to 10pm daily. Prices are a step above the island's carinderias and portions lean modest, so order a few plates to share. Come for a late lunch, then stay on: Saturday nights the resort throws its Harana Sabado party, and there is a hidden gin bar near the beach bar if you ask.