Ayans Local Food

Ayans Local Food is a family-run kitchen on a barangay road in the quiet north of Larena, about 45 minutes' ride from San Juan. From the road it looks like a house with a balcony, but behind it is an airy, beautifully decorated native hut surrounded by trees, flowers and the garden that supplies much of the kitchen.

The cooking is fresh, home-style Visayan, made to order. Banana blossom balls are the signature and the most-mentioned dish, followed by kinilaw with very fresh fish, banana blossom or vegetables in coconut milk, chicken curry, chicken adobo, grilled fish and squid, law-uy vegetable soup and the eggplant omelette. Vegetarians and vegans eat better here than almost anywhere on the island. Finish with mango float or a banana pancake with coconut bukayo, and drink a mango shake, fresh calamansi juice or a carafe of iced tea. The family also offers massages.

Prices are local-eatery level, with most meals under ₱500 a head, and portions are generous. Everything is cooked from scratch, so food can take a while: plan an unhurried meal rather than a quick stop. Make it your lunch on a north-coast loop and order the banana blossom balls for the table.